Jane Birkin’s original Hermès bag sells at auction for 7 million euros

PARIS (AP) – Sketched out on an air sickness bag, the first Birkin handbag – the prototype for fashion’s must-have accessory – sold for a record 7 million euros (about $8.2 million) at auction in Paris on Thursday.

The huge amount – which drew gasps and applause from the audience – crushed what auctioneer Sotheby’s had said was the previous auction record for a handbag. That was $513,040, for a White Himalaya Niloticus Crocodile Diamond Retourne Kelly 28.

Now, the original Birkin bag, named after the actor, singer and fashion icon that Hermès created it for – the late Jane Birkin – is in a new league of its own.

The bidding started at 1 million euros ($1.17 million) and quickly became stratospheric, with telephone bidders fighting it out until the end. With Sotheby’s fees included, the total price for the winning bidder from Japan was a cool 8.6 million euros ($10.1 million), the auction house said.

Paris fashion house Hermès exclusively commissioned the bag for the London-born star in 1984 – branding it with her initials J.B. on the front flap, below the lock – and delivered the finished one-of-a-kind bag to her the following year, the auction house said. The subsequent commercialized version of Birkin’s bag went on to become one of the world’s most exclusive luxury items, extravagantly priced and with a yearslong waiting list.

The bag was born of a fortuitous encounter on a London-bound flight in the 1980s with the then-head of Hermès, Jean-Louis Dumas. Birkin recounted in subsequent interviews that the pair got talking after she spilled some of her things on the cabin floor.

Birkin asked Dumas why Hermès didn’t make a bigger handbag and sketched out on an airplane vomit bag the sort of hold-all that she would like. He then had an example made for her and, flattered, she agreed when Hermès asked whether it could commercialize the bag in her name.

“There is no doubt that the Original Birkin bag is a true one-of-a-kind – a singular piece of fashion history that has grown into a pop culture phenomenon that signals luxury in the most refined way possible. It is incredible to think that a bag initially designed by Hermès as a practical accessory for Jane Birkin has become the most desirable bag in history,” said Morgane Halimi, Sotheby’s head of handbags and fashion.

The bag became so famous that Birkin once mused before her death in 2023 at age 76 that her obituaries would likely “say, ‘Like the bag’ or something.”

“Well, it could be worse,” she added.

The Paris auction room buzzed with anticipation as the auction got underway, with the auctioneer reminding the crowd that the bag was “totally unique” and “the most famous bag of all time.”

From the starting price, the bids quickly surpassed 2 million, then 3 million, 4 million and 5 million, to astonished gasps. When the price jumped from 5.5 to 6 million in one swoop, there were whistles and applause.

The last bids were 6.2 million, 6.5 million, 6.8 million before the Japanese buyer’s last winning bid: 7 million. Sotherby’s didn’t identify the winner.

Sotheby’s said that seven design elements on the handcrafted all-black leather prototype set it apart from Birkins that followed.

It’s the only Birkin with a nonremovable shoulder strap – fitting for the busy life and practicality of the singer, actor, social activist and mother who was also known for her romantic relationship with French singer Serge Gainsbourg and their duets that included the steamy 1969 song “Je t’aime moi non plus” (“I Love You, Me Neither”).

Her bag also had a nail clipper attached, because Birkin “was never one for long painted nails,” Sotheby’s said.

The bag that Hermès handmade for her, developed off its existing Haut A Courroies model, also has gilded brass hardware, bottom studs and other features that differ from commercial Birkins.

Birkin’s casual, breezy style in the 1960s and early 1970s – long hair with bangs, jeans paired with white tops, knit minidresses and basket bags – still epitomizes the height of French chic for many women around the world.

When Birkin chatted to Hermès’ Dumas on the Paris-to-London flight about what her ideal handbag would be, she’d been in the habit of carrying her things around in a wicker basket, because she felt handbags in the 1980s were too small, Sotheby’s said. She was traveling with her young daughter, Charlotte, and complained that she couldn’t find a bag suitable for her needs as a mother, Hermès says.

Hermès later gifted her four other Birkin bags. She kept the prototype for nearly a decade, before auctioning it for an AIDS charity in 1994. It was auctioned again in 2000 and has since been in private hands, Sotheby’s said.

“More than just a bag, the Birkin has evolved from a practical accessory to become a timeless cultural icon,” the auction house said.

“Its presence spans the worlds of music, film, television and the arts,” it added. “It is a red-carpet staple, a fashion magazine mainstay, and a coveted piece in the wardrobes of celebrities, artists and stylists.”