Balmain hires Antonin Tron, moving brand from celebrity flash to fabric-first design

PARIS (AP) – Balmain on Wednesday named French designer Antonin Tron its new creative director, tapping the Atlein founder known for structured minimalism and sculptural drape to follow Olivier Rousteing ‘s high-octane, celebrity-driven era.

The move signals a shift from sequined spectacle to construction-led refinement that echoes founder Pierre Balmain’s “architecture of movement.” Tron, 41, starts in November and will unveil his first collection at Paris Fashion Week in March for fall-winter 2026, the house said.

“I am deeply honored to be joining Balmain,” Tron said. “At its heart, the House embodies savoir-faire, culture, sensuality and elegance – fashion that is radiant, precise and bold.” He thanked Rousteing “for building Balmain into the global brand it is today.”

Founded in 1945, Balmain helped shape postwar French couture with the so-called New French Style – sculpted lines, rich embroidery and Parisian polish. Today it is one of France’s storied maisons, spanning women’s and men’s ready-to-wear, accessories, beauty and eyewear.

Rousteing, who stepped down last week after 14 years, recast Balmain as a pop-culture force with broad-shouldered glamour, sequined tailoring and the celebrity “Balmain Army,” expanding the brand’s global profile and social media reach.

Rachid Mohamed Rachid, who chairs Balmain, said Tron’s craft-driven approach makes him “an exciting talent” and that he’ll work with CEO Matteo Sgarbossa to steer the house’s next phase “defined by creativity, modernity and elegance.”

Tron’s method is rooted in drape and fabric “physicality,” echoing founder Pierre Balmain’s belief that “dressmaking is the architecture of movement,” Sgarbossa added.

Born in Paris in 1984 and trained at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Tron worked on design teams at Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Balenciaga and Saint Laurent before launching Atlein in 2016. His label became known for body-con silhouettes, precision draping and fluid jersey techniques, with made-in-France production and a focus on movement.