Why you should add Uruguay to your South American itinerary

Uruguay is sunny, welcoming and has a 40-day Carnaval celebration, as writer Molly Mclaughlin found out.

Often overlooked by travellers in favour of its larger neighbours, Uruguay is relatively easy to travel, welcoming and extremely laid back. What's more, the country's national dish of asado pairs beautifully with its famous Tannat wine.

As well as having one of the world's highest ratios of cows to humans, Uruguay celebrates the world's longest Carnaval celebration - from mid January to late February.

Influenced by the country's Indigenous roots, European history and African heritage, this legendary street festival features a Llamadas parade and has a tonne of stages set up throughout Montevideo, where fabulous groups perform music, comedy, dance and more.

Speaking of the capital, Montevideo has an understated charm with a thriving cafe scene, sprawling parks and beaches - and few tourists outside of the summer months.

A couple of hours east, Punta del Este is a popular resort area and the gateway to a string of coastal towns, including the remote hippie hideout of Cabo Polonio.

Uruguay is an ideal spot to spend a week or two, especially if you're already nearby in Buenos Aires or Southern Brazil. This is especially true if you are a fan of football and/or that sweet treat dulce de leche!

A bit about Uruguayan history

Uruguay has a long and complex story.

Since its colonisation in the 1500s, despite fierce resistance, local Indigenous populations (including Charrúa, Minuane and Guaraní) suffered immense losses at the hands of Spanish, Portuguese, British and Brazilian invaders. Many Indigenous people still fight for justice and to be recognised today. 

Uruguay declared independence in 1825 (recognised in 1828), with some of its major traditional parties among the oldest in the world.

Democracy here has mostly been very strong, and the 20th century saw so many leftist currents unite under the Frente Amplio (Broad Front) - but it was then brutally repressed from 1973 after a coup and subsequent dictatorship under which one in 50 Uruguayans were imprisoned. 

After tireless activism, 1984 saw the return of democracy. The horrendous legacy of the dictatorship can still be felt, but today Uruguay is classed as the most socially advanced and least unequal country in Latin America. 

Abortion and gay marriage have been legal for over a decade thanks to former revolutionary and president José Mujica - who was revered for choosing to ride a bike, live in an old farmhouse and donate 90% of his salary.

Since 2020, the centre-right National Party has been in charge, but the country's pride in its social progress remains.

The capital, Montevideo

Most visitors to this gem will start their trip in the capital, located on the country's southern coast. The Ciudad Vieja is the main attraction, with its eclectic architecture and quirky street art. 

Here, the Mercado del Puerto is known for its asado - Uruguay's mouthwatering national dish of fire-grilled meat - while the sounds of candombe and tango dominate the city streets on weekends and evenings. 

Of course you've got to try mate too! This traditional herbal tea made is made from yerba mate leaves, and it's an essential part of the social life here, with sharing a common practice.

The neighbourhood around Parque Rodó is popular with students and dotted with restaurants and bars, while nearby Los Pocitos beach is a great spot for a dip.

Thanks to the Rambla de Montevideo - the gorgeous esplanade - you can walk or cycle along the beach for more than 20km, passing by the city's best beaches. 

Punta del Este

This is Uruguay's (chilled out) version of a glamorous beach resort. During summer, Punta is a thriving destination with plenty of bars and restaurants to visit, but during the cooler months, you'll have the beach all to yourself. 

Casapueblo, an art gallery and hotel designed by renowned Uruguayan artist Carlos Páez Vilaró just outside Punta del Este, offers one of the most iconic sunset views in the world.

Every afternoon, the Sun Ceremony is held on the gallery's terraces, with a recording of the artist's voice reading a poem dedicated to the sun. 

Punta del Este is also the most popular surfing spot in Uruguay. While Uruguay overall is pricier than Argentina or Brazil, Punta is the most expensive destination in the country, so might be worth skipping if you're on a budget. 

Of course, there are plenty of towns that are less glitzy but just as beautiful along the coast, including Piriápolis (closer to Montevideo and La Paloma), La Pedrera and Punta del Diablo (up near the Brazilian border).

Cabo Polonio

Cabo Polonio is an off-the-grid coastal village within the Cabo Polonio National Park, with sand dunes, a rocky coastline, a giant seal colony and a bohemian atmosphere that draws visitors from around the world. 

Accessible only by park-run safari buses or on foot, Cabo Polonio has long been an outpost for Uruguay's hippies and rebels. Here, the two main beaches, Playa Sur and Playa de la Calavera, stretch enticingly into the horizon on either side of a historic lighthouse. 

The town itself runs on a few generators and locals walk along sandy tracks to get from place to place, so be prepared for a more rustic experience than other tourist hotspots. Like Punta del Este and the rest of Uruguay's beaches however, the town is busy between December and February. 

Don't let the crowds (or lack thereof) put you off though; Cabo has a special atmosphere no matter what time of year you visit. 

Colonia del Sacramento

A UNESCO World Heritage site, Colonia del Sacramento's cobblestone streets can be reached overland from Uruguay, or even by ferry from Buenos Aires in nearby Argentina.

This quaint, picturesque city on the shores of the Río de la Plata has both Spanish and Portuguese colonial influences, which are evident in its historic buildings. 

It's small and sleepy, so you don't need to spend more than a day here, but the oldest church in Uruguay, the monastery ruins, the Calle de Los Suspiros (the Street of Sighs) and the views across the river are well worth the trip! 

The Interior

Away from the coast, most of Uruguay's interior is dominated by agriculture and small cities that are less visited by foreign travellers.

There are some exceptions: the wineries around Montevideo (Uruguay is known for its Tannat grape, producing robust red wines) and the hot springs of the north-west are popular during winter. 

The ravine area known as Quebrada de los Cuervos, in the north-east, is an excellent spot for camping, hiking and birdwatching (twitcher highlights include the endangered mountain peacock, the saffron blackbird and the Dominican Pepoaza). 

Another wonderful experience is gaucho (aka cowboy) culture! Attend a rodeo, learn to ride a horse and check out the Fiesta de la Patria Gaucha in Tacuarembó.