Discovering Japan's art island

From the moment you step off the ferry, you're greeted by a landscape that's as much an outdoor gallery as it is a living, breathing art installation.

Naoshima, often called Japan's “Art Island”, offers an experience with the same allure as Tasmania's MONA, but on a much grander scale. It's not so much about shock value, but rather a treat for the eyes with installations and nature everywhere you turn.

Sure, Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka are all iconic, but when I'm asked about my favourite place in Japan, I don't hesitate - it's Naoshima Island, located on Japan's Seto Inland Sea. 

Naoshima Art Island was conceived by the Benesse Corporation in the late 1980s by Soichiro Fukutake. There, you'll find three art museums designed by Tadao Ando, the esteemed Japanese architect.

The architecture and installations are mostly modern and generally steer away from the traditional Japanese style, even sprawling across the neighbouring islands of Teshima and Inujima. 

If you've flipped through any guidebooks, you'll be familiar with Yayoi Kusama - the artist known for her iconic red wig, polka-dot attire and, of course, her famous pumpkin sculptures.

For many visitors, Kusama's work leaves a lasting impression and is often the main reason they're drawn to Naoshima. She's an incredibly talented Japanese artist, and her signature dot style can be found all over the island.

There’s a fascinating documentary called Kusama: Infinity, which dives into her life and how she became a worldwide icon. It’s definitely worth a watch if you want to understand the hype behind her unique style.

At the grand age of 95, Yayoi continues to create art from an asylum in Tokyo, a testament to her enduring passion.

Getting around

Navigating Naoshima Island is straightforward. Installations are numbered on the map. There's an information and transport hub at Miyanoura Port for all your further travel needs (including timetables) and lockers if you wish to roam the island rucksack-free.

Minibuses run between Miyanoura (west port), Honmura (east port) and the Benesse Art Site area (JP¥ 100). There's also a free Benesse shuttle, stopping at all the Benesse Art Site museums. Although Honmura port offers ferry connections to and from Uno, these are rather infrequent. 

While you can explore Naoshima on foot or by bus, we highly recommend using an e-bike for a more relaxed and thorough experience.

The terrain is quite hilly, and the walking distances are a little too far for your average walker. Having a bike means you can scout the best viewpoints quickly, and trust me, there are a million beautiful places to perch yourself for a rest or stopover.

In addition, an electric bike allows you to pedal as much or as little as you want, and you won't be restricted to the somewhat infrequent bus services.

You can rent an electric bike at Miyanoura for about JP¥ 1000 per day, which is, in my view, totally worth it. It's also possible to loop around the island and finish back up in Miyanoura for drop-off. From here, there are ferry services to Takamatsu, Uno, and Inujima.

When to go

Naoshima Island is a year-round destination, but it is most pleasant in Spring (March - May) and Autumn (Mid September - November). Keep in mind, all museums and arthouses are closed on Mondays.

For most travellers, a day on Naoshima (which is what I ended up doing) is more than enough time to experience the island without feeling like you're in a rush.

Getting there

No matter if you’re based in Tokyo, Kyoto, or Osaka, a trip to Naoshima is completely feasible and well worth the journey. If you're coming from Okayama, there's a direct JR train to Uno (which takes just under an hour).

From there, it's a short walk to Uno Port, where you can catch the ferry to Naoshima Island (approx. 20 minutes). You will be dropped off at Miyanoura Port on Naoshima Island.

It's also possible to get to Naoshima from Takamatsu and Inujima (if that's closer for you).

Whether you’re cycling along the coastline or exploring the art house installations in Honmura, Naoshima feels like a world apart, making it a must-visit destination for art lovers, those who enjoy the outdoors and anyone seeking a peaceful retreat into Japan's innovative art scene.

The island invites you to explore its beauty as a living, breathing canvas.

Hero image 📸 Matt Cheok